April 20, 2005 - May 04, 2005

Day 14
May 3,  2005 Kusadasi, Turkey
The text and the picture is submitted by Elaine Squeri

To market day at Tire. Stopped at a flooded site for cotton cultivation, mountain reflection, ducks, fertile Lesser Meander Valley, sheep and shepherd(s), a contrast to modern highway & vehicles in background. Poppy field today?

Mausoleum quick stop to see a tomb, maybe “mausoleum”
The original Mausoleum was the burial site of Mausole, King of Caria at Halicarnassus or present day Bodrum, who died young and for whom his wife built in 340BC an impressive “eum”, house, for his urn of ashes to await reincarnation. It was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, rising 140 feet high as a beacon above the harbor. The term is misused today: it is a square or rectangular building with colonnade, pyramidal roof and pediment; so e.g. Rumi’s tomb is not a mausoleum. (eum: museum, byzanteum, etc.)

Tire modern town with extensive, colorful old bazaar quarter and the Tahtkale neighborhood up the hill. Hans are in operation: felt maker, saddler, ropemaker in an old caravanserai, tinsmith, etc. Another caravanserai of the 15th century was in the midst of market streets; one could go up and see the individual hostelry accommodations(hans) and have a glass of tea. Headdresses were different – white covering fastened under the chin, skirts of red and black stripe almost as if a uniform; more men wearing kaffayas. After about four hours shopping, journey up the mountain past stone walls and olive trees on terraces to the Kaplan Restaurant for Lunch of mezze: many dishes of various creations with vegetables. We drank mulberry juice.

Sirince hill village of stone and stucco houses with red-tiled roofs amid vines, fruit trees, and beauty. It was perhaps settled when Ephesus was abandoned but what is there now is 19th century. Freed Greek slaves settled there in the 15th century & named it Cirkince or Ugliness to keep others away!
Governor of Izmir in 1926 changed the name to Sirince or Pleasantness. During the exchange of populations in 1924, Thessalonicans moved here and established fruit farming. The artisan skills of its people bolstered the economy
today: jewelry, craft necklaces, crochet of various types including small stuffed animals, crowns of dried yellow mimosa, borek cooked on grills, etc.

Dinner Our last evening at Kalehan Hotel and a meal to match our requests: Yayla- mint rice soup; borek – stuffed pastry rolls, an eggplant dish
entrée, baklava. Fine end to a fine place.

Güle! Güle! Flight to Istanbul at 10:45 PM and Aya Sofia hotel.