August 02 - August 18, 2011
M  O  N  G  O  L  I  A
Gobi , Altay Mountains & Hovds Gull Tour
Group Journal Day 13
Submitted By Yvonne
MURUN - HUVSGUL LAKE
Aug. 14, 2011

Itierary: Fly to Murun. visit the Deer Stones. Drive to Huvsgol Lake

Yvonne Mongolia trip August 14, 2011- A DAY OF WONDERING IN AWE

Sunday we had a bit of a bumpy start with 2 travelling companions thinking we were leaving at 9:30 am rather than 9 am and one being a bit off in the tummy. During breakfast at the Edlewiess we chatted with a team from Germany bicycling from Hamburg to Beijing. I am amazed at the number of people from all over the world who are here appreciating this amazing land and peoples.

 

Unfortunately, one of our intrepid travelers was not as over “traveler’s disease as she thought and the trip on the turbo prop SAAB 340 B did her in. As she had become very dehydrated and weak, she had to stay in Murun at the 50/100 hotel with treatment from a local doctor. A local person who spoke English was found with the help of local hotel staff to help our companion. One person choose to stay with the sick individual who is now on the mend. We will pick them up on our way back through Murun on our return to UB Aug. 16th.

Meantime the remaining 7 along with Meli, Boloroo and our 2 drivers continued. We carnivores had a quarter chicken beautifully done and we were back on the road.

 

We are in totally different kind of landscape … a different green, more topsoil, some trees and hence wooden buildings. The roofs are peaked … probably for the snow load. More motorcycles than horses.

It is interesting to see construction crews who have ger camps rather than mobile homes. Also, the ingenious use of rocks to mark everything including where the new road goes and the center of the road.

Finally, we got a good view of yaks. Learned that the people like to interbreed yaks and cattle to make a hybrid. The female babies of this combination give more milk, but their babies are weak. The male babies of this combination are strong, have more fat and meat but are unable to have babies so neither are used for breeding. We have yet to decide if they are caks; yalfs or what. Interesting to see. Of course, back with goats, sheep, horses and the odd camel. Rather idyllic pastoral scene. Use of wood for animal shelters as well as outbuildings. More homes built of wood …however often in shape of a ger.

On way from Murun passed an amazing statue to the best race horses of the region. Unfortunately did not call Boloroo’s attention to it in time to stop and visit it.

30 minutes out of Murun on more dusty roads with bumps – but improved over the roads we have been on - stopped at the UUSHIGIIN UVER deerstones of the Hunnu people from it is estimated 6000 – 2500 years ago. The Hunnu believed the deer took the souls of the deceased to the next world. This is a World Historical and Cultural Site. The burial mound, kherekhures, covered several rooms of buried treasures and the bodies of not only the Hunnu aristocracy, but their servants. The site was amazing … realizing how deep and long humans have been trying to make sense of their time on this earth and its connection to other worlds.

 

 

                                                                                                                                                                       
After another hour or so of dusty bumpy road with a lot of evidence of road construction, we arrived at out “home” for the next two nights. A ger camp called Nature’s Door, literally on the shores of Lake Huvsgul –the deepest and second largest lake in Mongolia. We were not only treated to yet another spectacular sunset and moon rise over the lake, but to a dinner of freshly caught Lenok fish from the lake which we ate by candlelabra. It was the first night we all ate the same meal.

The camp has compostable toilets, and water to wash outside with little reservoirs to be warmed by the sun.

We retired for the night in to our wood heated gers …

 

  

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